Khiva
Itchan Kala, a whole walled town of minarets and madrasahs, small enough to cross in twenty minutes and best at sunset.
- 1–2 days
- Fly to Urgench or take the train; Khiva is 30 minutes from Urgench
- Starting point for the Aral Sea and the desert fortresses
About Khiva
Khiva is a small town in the Khorezm oasis on the lower Amu Darya, half an hour from the regional capital, Urgench. Its heart is Did you know? People still live inside Khiva's museum city Itchan Kala packs more than 50 historic monuments and about 250 old houses inside clay walls 8–10 m high and 5–6 m thick, and families still live and work in its lanes. Read more →: a walled rectangle of 26 hectares, about 650 by 400 metres, with four gates. Around it lies Dishan Kala, the outer town, where Khiva goes to school, shops and works. By day the lanes inside the walls fill with craft workshops and visitors; after dark many of them move out to the new lakeside quarter of A new tourist complex on the shore of Lake Govuk, a short drive from Ichan-Kala, opened in May 2025: 17 hotels and guest houses, a 3,000-seat amphitheatre, restaurants, a bazaar under domes and a canal with gondolas. Read more →.
By A network of caravan routes between China and the Mediterranean. Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva grew rich as stops along it. standards most of what you see is young. The monuments of Itchan Kala date mainly from the 16th to the 19th centuries, when Khiva was the capital of a khanate, and the khans kept building until the early 20th century. That is why the town looks so complete: a late royal capital that has survived almost whole.
History in brief
- 10th centuryArab travellers mention Khiva in writing for the first time. Tradition makes the town far older, and in 1997 it celebrated its 2,500th anniversary.
- 17th centuryKhiva becomes the capital of the Khanate of Khiva, and from here the khans rule Khorezm for the next three centuries.
- 1830–1842Allakuli Khan builds the Tosh Hovli palace and then the outer wall of Dishan Kala, more than 5.6 km long.
- 1873Khiva becomes a protectorate of the Russian Empire. The khans stay on the throne and keep building, right up to the last An Islamic college: student cells and classrooms around a courtyard behind a grand portal. In the old towns many now house museums and craft workshops. and minaret of the early 20th century.
- 1920The khanate ends and Khiva becomes the capital of the Khorezm People's Soviet Republic. In 1924 Khiva becomes part of Uzbekistan.
- 1990Itchan Kala becomes the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in Uzbekistan.
- 2018The railway reaches Khiva, with a new station in the Khorezm style. In 2026 a high-speed train from Tashkent starts running here.
What to see
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Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors
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1West Gate and Kalta Minor
Most visitors enter Itchan Kala through Ota Darvoza, the West Gate. Just inside stands the madrasa of Muhammad Amin Khan (1852–1855), the largest in Khiva, with 130 rooms over two floors, and beside it the turquoise drum of Did you know? A 14-metre-wide base for a tower that stopped at 29 m Kalta Minor was begun in 1852 and meant to reach 70–80 m, but work halted in 1855 at about 29 m when its khan died. It is said to be the only minaret covered entirely in glazed tiles. Read more →. Come back in the late afternoon, when the low sun lights up the tiles.
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2Kunya Ark
The old citadel of the khans, begun in 1686, once held a chancellery, a harem, a mint and mosques for summer and winter. The reception hall, both mosques and the harem survive. Climb the Ak Sheikh Bobo bastion, a former watchtower in the western wall, for the widest view over the domes and minarets.
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3Juma Mosque
Khiva's Friday mosque was first recorded in the 10th century and rebuilt in 1788. Its single hall, 55 by 46 metres, rests on 212 wooden columns in 17 rows, and no two are carved alike. Come around midday, when light falls through the two openings in the roof.
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4Tosh Hovli Palace
Allakuli Khan's 'Stone Courtyard', built in the 1830s, has more than 260 rooms around three courtyards. In the harem, four loggias belonged to the khan's four wives and the fifth, the largest, to the khan. Look for the round platforms in the reception courtyard, where guests set up their yurts.
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5Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum
Khiva's patron saint, a poet and wrestler who died in 1326, lies under the largest dome in town, covered in turquoise tiles. Khans of Khiva were later buried around him. It is still a place of pilgrimage, so dress modestly and keep your voice down.
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6Islam Khoja Madrasa and Minaret
The last madrasa of the khans, finished around 1910, has 42 small cells around a courtyard and now houses the Museum of Applied Arts: Khorezm woodcarving, metalwork, carpets and tiles. The minaret next to it can be seen from all over town and is the place to be at sunset.
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7Nurullaboy Palace
Outside the walls, in Dishan Kala, the last khans built a palace in a new style. Its reception hall, finished in 1912, mixes local carved plaster with mirrors, painted ceilings and tiled stoves brought from Russia. The restoration was completed in 2017.
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8Khiva Railway Station
Opened in November 2018, the station is decorated in the spirit of old Khorezm architecture, with white carved columns and arches. It stands less than 2 km east of Itchan Kala, and this is where the high-speed train from Tashkent arrives.
Photos: Wooden columns of the Juma Mosque, Khiva — Dan Lundberg / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 2.0; Tosh Hovli Palace, Khiva — Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 2.0; Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum, Khiva — Panpanchik / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0; Nurullaboy Palace, Khiva — Faqscl / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
Neighbourhoods
- Itchan Kala The walled inner town: monuments, workshops and guest houses inside one rectangle. Sleep inside the walls and you have the lanes to yourself early in the morning and late in the evening.
- Dishan Kala The outer town, once enclosed by a wall built in 1842, of which only a few gates survive. Walk out through the north gate to Nurullaboy Palace and you are in everyday Khiva.
- Arda Khiva and Lake Govuk A new quarter on the lake north of the old town, opened in May 2025: hotels, restaurants, a bazaar under domes and a canal with gondolas. The clay for the outer wall was dug here, and the pit later filled with water. Read more →
- The desert fortresses On the right bank of the Amu Darya, in Karakalpakstan, the clay fortresses of Ruins of ancient Khorezm fortresses on hills at the edge of the Kyzylkum, in Karakalpakstan. and Toprak-Kala stand above the The Kyzylkum, or Red Sands: the desert between the Amu Darya and Syr Darya rivers that the road and the railway cross on the way to Khiva.. We drive out to them from Khiva as a separate trip. Read more →
What to eat
- Shivit oshi Khiva's signature dish: noodles turned bright green with dill, topped with a stew of meat, potatoes and carrots and served with yoghurt. Have it for lunch in the old town.
- Tukhum barak Khorezm's egg dumplings: the raw egg filling sets in the boiling water. They are served with sour cream or yoghurt.
- Khorezm melons Khorezm is famous for its melons, above all the gurvak. In late summer they are piled high at every market.
Getting around
Inside the walls you walk everywhere. For the station, Nurullaboy Palace or Arda Khiva, call a Yandex Go taxi: it has worked in Khiva and Urgench since 2024, and you pay in cash or by a card linked to the app. A trolleybus line of about 30 km runs between Khiva and Urgench, where the airport is.
Local tips
- In the last hour before sunset, climb the The old fortress-residence of the khans of Khiva, inside the walls of Itchan Kala. watchtower or a stretch of the wall: from above, the domes, minarets and flat clay roofs come together into one picture.
- Go out early. Before the tour groups arrive, the lanes of Itchan Kala are almost empty and the light on the walls is soft.
- The mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud, a poet and wrestler revered as the patron saint of Khiva. and the Khiva's Friday mosque: a single hall without a dome, held up by more than two hundred carved wooden columns of different ages. are places of prayer: cover shoulders and knees, and women should bring a scarf for the mausoleum.
- The high-speed train arrives from Tashkent every day except Sunday and leaves Khiva every day except Monday, so build your days around it. Read more →
- Bring cash in som for the craft stalls inside the walls; hotels and restaurants take cards.
- Look at the carved wooden doors and columns all over town: woodcarving is Khiva's own craft, and workshops inside the walls still practise it.
Our take: how many days you need
One full day is enough to walk through Itchan Kala, which can be crossed in twenty minutes. A second day suits the desert fortresses, with the Ayaz-Kala fortress in our programmes.
Already in Khiva? Services on the spot: VIP lounges, transfers, an evening out, trips out of town →
When to go: month by month
Daytime temperature, rainfall, public holidays and our rating for every month.
- Jan2.6° Cool, fewer people Cold: 2.6° by day 13 mm of rain ★ 1, 14
- Feb5.5° Cool, fewer people Cold: 5.5° by day 16 mm of rain
- Mar13.6° Great Cool: 13.6° by day 22 mm of rain ★ 8, 21
- Apr22° Great Comfortable: 22° by day 19 mm of rain
- May29° Great Comfortable: 29° by day 13 mm of rain ★ 9
- Jun34.4° Good Hot: 34.4° by day 5 mm of rain
- Jul35.8° Hard Hot: 35.8° by day 1 mm of rain
- Aug34° Hard Hot: 34° by day 2 mm of rain
- Sep27.8° Great Comfortable: 27.8° by day 2 mm of rain ★ 1
- Oct20.3° Great Comfortable: 20.3° by day 6 mm of rain ★ 1
- Nov10.6° Great Cool: 10.6° by day 12 mm of rain
- Dec4° Cool, fewer people Cold: 4° by day 13 mm of rain ★ 8
- 1 Jan — New Year
- 14 Jan — Defenders of the Motherland Day
- 8 Mar — International Women’s Day
- 21 Mar — Navruz
- 9 May — Day of Remembrance and Honour
- 1 Sep — Independence Day
- 1 Oct — Teachers’ Day
- 8 Dec — Constitution Day
- Ramadan Hayit (Eid al-Fitr): the date changes every year
- Kurban Hayit (Eid al-Adha): the date changes every year
Climate source: Википедия, статья «Urgench» (метеостанция в 35 км от Хивы; нормы 1991–2020; Pogoda.ru.net, NOAA) — en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urgench
Rating by daytime temperature: great — 18–30°, good — 12–18° or 30–33°, cool, fewer people — below 12°, hard — above 33°; heavy rain (100 mm and more) lowers great to good. For the cities we also follow our expert: the season is March–June and September–November, with March and November the best months (start and end of the season, few people); winter is not marked as a bad time.
How to see Khiva
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Read about Khiva
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How many days do I need in Khiva?
1–2 days
How do I get to Khiva?
Fly to Urgench or take the train; Khiva is 30 minutes from Urgench More in the article: Uzbekistan tours from Australia: flights, entry, seasons and how many days
When is the best time to go to Khiva?
Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are the most comfortable; summer days are hot. More in the article: Uzbekistan in April: spring weather, long days and tips
What can I add nearby?
Starting point for the Aral Sea and the desert fortresses
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