Nukus e Caracalpaquistão

A arte de vanguarda do Museu Savitsky, fortalezas antigas no Kyzylkum e o cemitério de navios de Muynak, na antiga margem do Mar de Aral.

1–3 dias
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Ponto de partida para Muynak, o Mar de Aral e as fortalezas do deserto

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Sobre Nukus e Caracalpaquistão

Nukus is the capital of Karakalpakstan, the republic in the north-west of Uzbekistan that stretches from the Amu Darya delta to the Ustyurt plateau. The city is young and planned, with broad avenues and big public buildings, and home to about 350,000 people. Travellers come for the Savitsky Museum, and then for the land around it: ancient Khorezm fortresses, Zoroastrian sites and the wide open spaces of the former Aral shore.

Ancient Khorezm flourished here long before the city: was guarding the oasis more than 2,000 years ago, and Toprak-Kala was its capital in the 2nd–3rd centuries AD. Mizdakhan has been a sacred hill for many centuries. Nukus became the capital of Karakalpakstan in 1932, and in 1966 the artist Igor Savitsky founded the museum that made the city famous. From the 1960s the Aral Sea retreated, and today Muynak welcomes travellers who come for the ships, the plateau and the silence.

História em poucas linhas

4th–3rd c. BCAyaz-Kala 1 is built on a hill above the to guard the Khorezm oasis.
1st–4th c.A town grows on the western hill of Mizdakhan, later one of the most revered burial grounds of the region.
2nd–3rd c.Toprak-Kala, a palace city with painted halls, is the capital of Khorezm.
9th–11th c.Mizdakhan revives with a fortified citadel, and Islam replaces the old burial customs.
1932Nukus becomes the capital of Karakalpakstan.
1966Igor Savitsky founds the art museum in Nukus.
TodayMuynak and the former Aral shore draw travellers on eco-tours and jeep expeditions.

O que ver

Carregando o mapa…

Mapa: © colaboradores do OpenStreetMap

1Savitsky Museum
The State Museum of Art of Karakalpakstan, founded in 1966 by Igor Savitsky, holds one of the largest collections anywhere of Russian avant-garde art of the 1920s and 1930s. Alongside it are Karakalpak jewellery and costume and finds from ancient Khorezm. Give it at least half a day; it is usually closed on Mondays.

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2Mizdakhan
A sacred necropolis on three hills about 20 km west of Nukus, near Khodjeyli. See the half-underground Mazlum-Khan Sulu mausoleum with its tiled interior and the Khalifa Erejep mausoleum, the “clock of the world”: legend says time will end when its last brick falls. The ruins of the Gyaur-Kala fortress stand next to it.
3Chilpik
A ring-shaped Zoroastrian dakhma, a “tower of silence”, on a lone hill above the right bank of the Amu Darya, about 45 km south-east of Nukus. Its walls, about 15 metres high, are some two thousand years old. Climb up for the view over the river and the desert, best in the late afternoon.
4Toprak-Kala
A palace city that was the capital of ancient Khorezm in the 2nd–3rd centuries AD: a grid of streets inside high mud-brick walls and a palace on a raised platform. Its painted halls and sculptures were studied by Sergey Tolstov’s expedition from 1938. The small Kyzyl-Kala fortress stands about 1 km away.

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5Ayaz-Kala
Three fortresses on hills at the edge of the Kyzylkum. The oldest, Ayaz-Kala 1, dates from the late 4th or early 3rd century BC and sits on a hill about 100 metres high, its walls about 180 by 150 metres. Climb up at sunset, then stay the night in the yurt camp nearby.

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6Muynak ship cemetery
Muynak was once a fishing port on the Aral Sea. Today its rusting ships rest on the sand where the harbour used to be, and the small town museum shows how the shore changed. From here jeep trips continue across the Ustyurt plateau to the sea itself.

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Fotos: Mizdakhan necropolis near Nukus — Erik Albers / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0; Chilpik dakhma near Nukus — Bruce Allardice / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 2.0; Ship cemetery, Muynak — Arian Zwegers / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0

Bairros

Central Nukus Wide avenues with the Savitsky Museum, several smaller museums and the main hotels within walking distance.
Khodjeyli and Mizdakhan A short drive west of Nukus: the sacred hills of Mizdakhan and the ruins of Gyaur-Kala.
Elliq-Kala, the “fifty fortresses” The district of ancient fortresses at the edge of the Kyzylkum, on the way to Khiva: Toprak-Kala, Kyzyl-Kala and Ayaz-Kala.
Muynak and the Aral shore About 200 km north, some three hours by road: the ship cemetery, the museum and the start of the jeep routes over the Ustyurt.

O que comer

Beshbarmak Boiled meat on wide flat noodles with a rich broth, a festive dish of the Karakalpaks. It is eaten by hand, as the name, “five fingers”, suggests.
Baursak Small pieces of fried dough served with tea, on the table at almost any Karakalpak meal.
Khorezm neighbours Khiva is a few hours away, so on the way try its green dill noodles, shivit oshi, and tukhum barak, thin dumplings filled with egg.

Como se locomover

Central Nukus is compact: the Savitsky Museum and the main hotels are within walking distance, and taxis are easy to find for anything further. Everything else needs a car with a driver: Mizdakhan is about 20 km away, Chilpik about 45 km, Ayaz-Kala about 150 km on the way to Khiva and Muynak about 200 km, three hours by road. For the Aral shore itself you need a 4×4.

Dicas de quem é daqui

Plan Nukus around the Savitsky Museum: it is usually closed on Mondays, so check the day before you book.
The best months for the desert and the Aral are April–May and September–October; summer is very hot and the open land has little shade.
Desert nights are cool even after a hot day: bring a warm layer for the yurt camp or the Aral shore.
Combine Nukus with Khiva: drive via Chilpik and the fortresses, then spend the evening in Arda Khiva, the new evening quarter of Khiva.
Mizdakhan is still a place of pilgrimage: walk quietly and dress modestly.

Nossa opinião: quantos dias você precisa

Um dia dá conta do Museu Savitsky e da necrópole de Mizdakhan. Acrescente um dia para Chilpik e as fortalezas do deserto a caminho de Khiva, e dois dias para Muynak e a margem do Mar de Aral: nossa extensão de 2 dias ao Mar de Aral começa com um voo de Tashkent a Nukus.

Quando ir: mês a mês

Temperatura durante o dia, chuva, feriados e nossa avaliação de cada mês.

jan6° Fresco, menos gente Frio: 6° durante o dia 32 mm de chuva ★ 1, 14
fev8.6° Fresco, menos gente Frio: 8.6° durante o dia 41 mm de chuva
mar15.5° Excelente Fresco: 15.5° durante o dia 47 mm de chuva ★ 8, 21
abr22.5° Excelente Agradável: 22.5° durante o dia 42 mm de chuva
mai28.7° Excelente Agradável: 28.7° durante o dia 26 mm de chuva ★ 9
jun34.1° Bom Calor forte: 34.1° durante o dia 8 mm de chuva
jul35.9° Difícil Calor forte: 35.9° durante o dia 2 mm de chuva
ago34.5° Difícil Calor forte: 34.5° durante o dia 2 mm de chuva
set29° Excelente Agradável: 29° durante o dia 3 mm de chuva ★ 1
out21.9° Excelente Agradável: 21.9° durante o dia 12 mm de chuva ★ 1
nov13.4° Excelente Fresco: 13.4° durante o dia 30 mm de chuva
dez7.5° Fresco, menos gente Frio: 7.5° durante o dia 31 mm de chuva ★ 8

1 jan — Ano-Novo
14 jan — Dia dos Defensores da Pátria
8 mar — Dia Internacional da Mulher
21 mar — Navruz
9 mai — Dia da Memória e da Honra
1 set — Dia da Independência
1 out — Dia do Professor
8 dez — Dia da Constituição
Ramadan Hayit (Eid al-Fitr): a data muda a cada ano
Kurban Hayit (Eid al-Adha): a data muda a cada ano

Fonte do clima: Википедия, статья «Samarkand», таблица климата (нормы 1991–2020; Pogoda.ru.net, NOAA) — en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samarkand; Википедия, статья «Bukhara», таблица климата (нормы 1991–2020; NOAA) — en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bukhara; Википедия, статья «Urgench» (метеостанция в 35 км от Хивы; нормы 1991–2020; Pogoda.ru.net, NOAA) — en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urgench; Википедия, статья «Tashkent», таблица климата (нормы 1991–2020; Pogoda.ru.net, NOAA) — en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tashkent

Avaliação pela temperatura durante o dia: excelente — 18–30°, bom — 12–18° ou 30–33°, fresco, menos gente — abaixo de 12°, difícil — acima de 33°; chuvas fortes (a partir de 100 mm) rebaixam “excelente” para “bom”. Para as cidades seguimos também a opinião dos nossos especialistas: a temporada vai de março a junho e de setembro a novembro, e março e novembro são os melhores meses (início e fim da temporada, pouca gente); o inverno não é marcado como época ruim.

Nukus e Caracalpaquistão: perguntas antes da viagem

Quantos dias ficar em Nukus e Caracalpaquistão?

1–3 dias

Como chegar a Nukus e Caracalpaquistão?

Cerca de uma hora e meia de voo a partir de Tashkent, um trem noturno ou de carro a partir de Khiva Mais no artigo: Voos para o Uzbequistão: como chegar da Europa, dos EUA e dos Emirados

Qual a melhor época para ir a Nukus e Caracalpaquistão?

A primavera (abril–maio) e o outono (setembro–outubro) são as épocas mais agradáveis; no verão os dias são quentes. Mais no artigo: Qual é a melhor época para visitar o Uzbequistão? Estações e clima

O que dá para incluir por perto?

Ponto de partida para Muynak, o Mar de Aral e as fortalezas do deserto